{"id":10380,"date":"2026-04-08T22:15:15","date_gmt":"2026-04-08T22:15:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/?p=10380"},"modified":"2026-04-08T22:15:15","modified_gmt":"2026-04-08T22:15:15","slug":"jim-whittaker-the-first-american-to-summit-everest-dies-at-97","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/?p=10380","title":{"rendered":"Jim Whittaker, the First American to Summit Everest, Dies at 97"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><br \/>\n<\/p>\n<div>\n<div class=\"justify-start\">\n<nav class=\"align-left col-span-full mb-base\" data-pom-e2e-test-id=\"breadcrumbs\"\/>\n<p>The mountaineer, REI visionary, and environmental advocate was the defining figure of 20th-century American climbing.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div><\/p>\n<p class=\"fp-leadCaption py-tight text-left font-utility text-utility3-size leading-utility3-line-height text-secondary\">Robert Kennedy and Whittaker pull on a tow line to help free a stuck ski plane at the base site at Mount Kennedy in Yukon Territory 150 miles west of Whitehorse, Canada, in 1965<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"article-body\">\n<p>Published April 8, 2026 03:54PM<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>Mountaineer Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest, died on April 7, 2026, at the age of 97. Whittaker reached the top of the world alongside Sherpa Nawang Gombu in 1963 and was one of the defining figures of 20th-century American mountaineering.<\/p>\n<p>Whittaker and his twin brother, Lou, were born and raised in Washington. Both Boy Scouts, the pair expressed a love of the outdoors from a young age, and began climbing on Scout trips into Washington\u2019s Olympic and Cascade ranges. By 16, both were members of Seattle\u2019s Mountaineers Club, according to an <a rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"text-brand-primary underline hover:text-brand-primary\/85 break-words overflow-wrap-anywhere underline-offset-[3px]\" rel=\"noopener\" data-afl-p=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/www.historylink.org\/file\/9361\">encyclopedia<\/a> of Washington state history.<\/p>\n<p>After graduating from West Seattle High School, Whittaker attended Seattle University to study biology. He minored in philosophy, and also played basketball\u2014he was six feet, five inches, and often known as \u201cBig Jim\u201d for his size. By 1948, Whittaker was volunteering as a rescuer on Mount Rainier. Two years later, in 1950, he and Lou began working as guides on the mountain. They also served on the National Ski Patrol and the Northwest Mountain Rescue and Safety Council.<\/p>\n<p>In 1955, Whittaker became the first full-time employee of the then-fledgling outdoor retailer REI. A decade later, in 1965\u2014two years after his historic Everest climb\u2014he guided Robert F. Kennedy to the summit of the then-unclimbed Mount Kennedy (13,944 feet) in the Canadian Yukon. The two men became fast friends, with Whittaker later being appointed campaign manager during Kennedy\u2019s unsuccessful 1968 presidential run.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2737831\" class=\"pom-image-wrap photo-alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" alt=\"Whittaker being interviewed for the 50th Anniversary Celebration of the First American Ascent of Mount Everest in 2013\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"2255\" height=\"1350\" decoding=\"async\" data-nimg=\"1\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2737831\" style=\"color:transparent\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cdn.outsideonline.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/AP915632257453.jpg?width=3840&amp;auto=webp&amp;quality=75&amp;fit=cover 1x\" src=\"https:\/\/cdn.outsideonline.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/AP915632257453.jpg?width=3840&amp;auto=webp&amp;quality=75&amp;fit=cover\"\/><figcaption class=\"pom-caption\"><span class=\"article__caption\">Whittaker being interviewed for the 50th Anniversary Celebration of the First American Ascent of Mount Everest in 2013<\/span> (Photo: Associated Press)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Whittaker remained involved with REI while working with Kennedy and became the brand\u2019s president and CEO in 1971. By this point, Lou had co-founded Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI), which would go on to become one of the world\u2019s leading mountain guide companies.<\/p>\n<p>In 1975 and 1978, Whittaker, along with his second wife, Dianne Roberts, led two American expeditions to K2, the world\u2019s second-highest mountain at 28,250 feet. On the latter trip, four team members\u2014Louis Reichardt, Rick Ridgeway, John Roskelley, and Jim Wickwire\u2014became the first Americans in history to reach the peak\u2019s summit.<\/p>\n<p>In a fall 2025 interview, Roberts spoke highly of her husband, not just as a climber but also as a partner.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cJim never, ever wavered in his support for me and probably would have thrown anyone off the K2 team who dared to openly challenge my right to climb with the rest of the team,\u201d she told <em><a rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"text-brand-primary underline hover:text-brand-primary\/85 break-words overflow-wrap-anywhere underline-offset-[3px]\" rel=\"noopener\" data-afl-p=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/www.cascadiadaily.com\/2026\/apr\/08\/an-enduring-spirit-friends-family-associates-reflect-on-nw-icon-jim-whittaker\/\">Cascadia Daily<\/a><\/em>. \u201cHe is truly a man ahead of his time and generation, and ahead of much of my generation, too\u2014a feminist in the best sense of the word.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>In 1990, Whittaker returned to Everest to lead the Everest International Peace Climb, which brought American, Soviet, and Chinese climbers together for a single ascent and removed over two tons of trash from the mountain\u2019s slopes. A few years later, in 1996, he, Roberts, and their two sons bought a sailboat and spent four years sailing nearly 20,000 miles around the world.<\/p>\n<p>Off the mountain, Whittaker was a dogged environmental advocate. REI historian Will Dunn told <em>Cascadia Daily<\/em> that Whittaker testified before Congress to help create several wilderness areas in the Pacific Northwest, including North Cascades National Park, Redwood National Park, and the Pasayten Wilderness. Former Washington governor Jay Inslee told the outlet that Whittaker set a gold standard for conservation in the state.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAnything that I was able to do as governor when it came to protecting orcas and the glaciers and the fish stems from his opening the natural world to Washingtonians,\u201d Inslee said.<\/p>\n<p>In his later life, Whittaker and Roberts moved to Port Townsend, Washington, where they lived at the time of his death. Whittaker is survived by Roberts and five sons: Carl, Scott, and Bobby from his first marriage, and Leif and Joss from his marriage to Roberts. His brother, Lou, died in 2024.<\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><iframe style=\"width:100%;border:none;display:block\" title=\"Script Content\" async=\"\"><\/iframe><br \/>In February 2025, a little over a year before Whittaker\u2019s death, his son Leif posted a tribute to his father on <a rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"text-brand-primary underline hover:text-brand-primary\/85 break-words overflow-wrap-anywhere underline-offset-[3px]\" rel=\"noopener\" data-afl-p=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DF76v34J-Gf\/?img_index=1\">Instagram<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cHe spoke about how damn lucky he has been, and how grateful he is for 96 years of incredible life,\u201d Leif Whittaker wrote. \u201cI think the world is lucky for the peace, joy, adventurous spirit, and love of nature he has spread throughout it.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><em><strong>For more on Whittaker\u2019s incredible life, read <\/strong><\/em><strong>Lost on Everest.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><!-- --><\/div>\n<p><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><br \/>\n<br \/><br \/>\n<br \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.outsideonline.com\/outdoor-adventure\/everest\/jim-whittaker-obituary-everest-mountaineer-rei\/\">Source link <\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The mountaineer, REI visionary, and environmental advocate was the defining figure of 20th-century American climbing. Robert Kennedy and Whittaker pull on a tow line to help free a stuck ski plane at the base site at Mount Kennedy in Yukon Territory 150 miles west of Whitehorse, Canada, in 1965 Published April 8, 2026 03:54PM Mountaineer<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":10381,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[35],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-10380","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-wild-living"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10380","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=10380"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10380\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/10381"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=10380"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=10380"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=10380"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}