{"id":15289,"date":"2026-06-25T09:22:40","date_gmt":"2026-06-25T09:22:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/?p=15289"},"modified":"2026-06-25T09:22:40","modified_gmt":"2026-06-25T09:22:40","slug":"he-surfs-world-class-waves-he-also-studies-what-keeps-them-alive","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/?p=15289","title":{"rendered":"He Surfs World-Class Waves. He Also Studies What Keeps Them Alive."},"content":{"rendered":"<p><br \/>\n<\/p>\n<div>\n<div class=\"article-body\">\n<p>Published June 25, 2026 03:04AM<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>Everyone loves Cliff Kapono. <a rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"article-content-link text-brand-primary underline hover:text-brand-primary\/85 break-words overflow-wrap-anywhere underline-offset-[3px]\" rel=\"noopener\" data-afl-p=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/toddglaser\/?hl=en\">Todd Glaser<\/a>, preeminent photographer, describes the 38-year-old surfer and scientist as a \u201cspecial person\u201d who can affect the level of conversation, no matter the topic. <a rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"article-content-link text-brand-primary underline hover:text-brand-primary\/85 break-words overflow-wrap-anywhere underline-offset-[3px]\" rel=\"noopener\" data-afl-p=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/alohavisuals\/?hl=en\">Alex Kiluauno<\/a>, filmmaker, credits Kapono with helping him connect with his Hawaiian family. <a rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"article-content-link text-brand-primary underline hover:text-brand-primary\/85 break-words overflow-wrap-anywhere underline-offset-[3px]\" rel=\"noopener\" data-afl-p=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/www.johnhrburns.com\/\">John Burns, PhD<\/a>, calls him \u201cone of the most freakishly talented people I\u2019ve ever met.\u201d Across a week spent on Maui and O\u2018ahu, nearly every person I meet that\u2019s local knows\u2014and loves\u2014Kapono. \u201cCliff Kapono?!\u201d exclaims my guide on a hike outside of Honolulu. \u201cOf course I know Cliff Kapono!\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Kapono, PhD, is as known for his surfing as for his science: he\u2019s a professional free surfer, a professor at Arizona State University, and a founding partner of nonprofit <a rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"article-content-link text-brand-primary underline hover:text-brand-primary\/85 break-words overflow-wrap-anywhere underline-offset-[3px]\" rel=\"noopener\" data-afl-p=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/themegalab.org\/\">MegaLab<\/a>. He is also the driving force behind Reef Week, a project supported by the sandal brand <a rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"article-content-link text-brand-primary underline hover:text-brand-primary\/85 break-words overflow-wrap-anywhere underline-offset-[3px]\" rel=\"noopener\" data-afl-p=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/www.reef.com\/\">Reef,<\/a> where MegaLab, Reef, and local communities team up to map reef breaks across the world. Over a weekend in May, I joined the team to map Honolua Bay in Maui.<\/p>\n<h2>Why Maps<\/h2>\n<p>\u201cMaps are the cornerstone of every successful civilization,\u201d says Kapono. \u201cThey show us where our treasures are and they provide us direction of where we\u2019re going.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Mapping reefs might seem esoteric if you\u2019re not in the ocean on a daily basis\u2014one Maui Uber driver even asked me, when I described the mapping of Honolua, \u201cWhat\u2019s the point of that?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Science for science\u2019s sake can be a hard sell in this day and age. But coral reefs are living beings that tell us a lot about the health of the ocean and, in turn, the health of our planet.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2745241\" class=\"pom-image-wrap photo-alignnone\"><figcaption class=\"pom-caption\"><span class=\"article__caption\">John Burns, PhD, maps Honolua Bay.<\/span> (Photo: Todd Glaser)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>\u201cThe ocean is the lifeblood of the planet,\u201d says Burns, Kapono\u2019s MegaLab partner. \u201cIt\u2019s giving us most of our oxygen, most of our food. They go hand in hand, ocean health and reef health.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Kapono is fond of reminding people that we\u2019ve mapped more of the surface of Mars than our own oceans (\u201cThat\u2019s f-ed up,\u201d he says), which means we\u2019re leaving a lot of knowledge behind.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cMaps tell us where we\u2019ve been and where to go next,\u201d says Kapono. When it comes to a warming planet, maps give us a baseline to compare to\u2014and help us know what solutions to actually deploy. \u201cBy having a map and contributing to a larger map of the coral reefs in the world, we\u2019re going to be better prepared to adapt in a changing environment.\u201d<\/p>\n<h2>The Process of Mapping a Reef<\/h2>\n<p>Honolua Bay is the fifth surf break mapped by Reef Week, after Cloudbreak in Tahiti, Pipeline in O\u02bbahu, Jaws in Maui, and Teahupo\u02bbo in Tahiti. Honolua\u2014small, tucked into Maui\u2019s northwest shore\u2014is a marine protected area and delivers some of the world\u2019s best barrels. \u201cI could not imagine a more soul-stirring wave,\u201d writes William Finnegan in classic surf memoir <a rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"article-content-link text-brand-primary underline hover:text-brand-primary\/85 break-words overflow-wrap-anywhere underline-offset-[3px]\" rel=\"noopener\" data-afl-p=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Barbarian-Days-Surfing-William-Finnegan\/dp\/0143109391\"><em>Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life<\/em><\/a>. \u201cI wanted more of it. All I could get.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The reef itself supports some of the best snorkeling I\u2019ve done in Hawai\u2018i. Even on the overcast day we go out mapping, the clarity is exceptional. This is great for contributing images that will ultimately help make up the 3D map we\u2019re there to create.<\/p>\n<p><iframe class=\"fp-remove\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"position:absolute\" title=\"Honolua Full Model Logos\" src=\"https:\/\/cdn.jwplayer.com\/players\/IlZNgEx1-fyTDUKlw.html\" width=\"100%\" height=\"100%\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"auto\" allowfullscreen=\"\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>The map itself was built using a combination of sonar data gathered by <a rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"article-content-link text-brand-primary underline hover:text-brand-primary\/85 break-words overflow-wrap-anywhere underline-offset-[3px]\" rel=\"noopener\" data-afl-p=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/bluerobotics.com\/product-category\/boat\/\">Blue Boat<\/a>, a little red robotic boat that tracks up and down the bay, and underwater photos and video shot by MegaLab scientists and everyday citizens\u2014world-class surfers, including <a rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"article-content-link text-brand-primary underline hover:text-brand-primary\/85 break-words overflow-wrap-anywhere underline-offset-[3px]\" rel=\"noopener\" data-afl-p=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/billykemper\/?hl=en\">Billy Kemper<\/a> and <a rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"article-content-link text-brand-primary underline hover:text-brand-primary\/85 break-words overflow-wrap-anywhere underline-offset-[3px]\" rel=\"noopener\" data-afl-p=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/keiti_mar\/?hl=en\">Katie McConnell<\/a>, as well as Maui locals showed up to help us map the reef.<\/p>\n<p>When I express, self-deprecatingly, that my personal contribution to the map probably wasn\u2019t much\u2014equipped with a GoPro, I snapped some 15-second videos, the longest I can hold my breath\u2014I am enthusiastically reassured by Kapono and multiple other scientists that all images of the reef are valuable.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2745248\" class=\"pom-image-wrap photo-alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" alt=\"a red robotic boat in honolua bay\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"2400\" height=\"1602\" decoding=\"async\" data-nimg=\"1\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2745248\" style=\"color:transparent\" src=\"https:\/\/cdn.outsideonline.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/glasert_20260509_REEF_MEGALAB_1828.jpg?width=3840&amp;auto=webp&amp;quality=75&amp;fit=cover 1x\" bad-src=\"https:\/\/cdn.outsideonline.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/glasert_20260509_REEF_MEGALAB_1828.jpg?width=3840&amp;auto=webp&amp;quality=75&amp;fit=cover\"\/><figcaption class=\"pom-caption\"><span class=\"article__caption\">Blue Boat, built in conjunction with Blue Robotics, floating in Honolua Bay. <\/span> (Photo: Todd Glaser)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>\u201cOur initiative is to map a million reefs by 2030. And to do that, we have to train 10,000 people to do the maps,\u201d says Riley Sokol, a researcher at MegaLab. \u201cSo we\u2019re training people to use tools, like an iPad or GoPro, where you just take videos of the reef, or pictures, and then upload it to our website, <a rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"article-content-link text-brand-primary underline hover:text-brand-primary\/85 break-words overflow-wrap-anywhere underline-offset-[3px]\" rel=\"noopener\" data-afl-p=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/map2adapt.com\/\">Map2Adapt<\/a>, where we\u2019re able to now have a repository of reefs that people map all around the world.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>And our mapping of Honolua resulted in real learnings about the reef and how it manifests into a world-class wave.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThese sort of cracks and crevices at Honolua are the reason that we believe the wave is dynamic. It\u2019s not the same\u2014it\u2019s always changing, but in a predictable manner,\u201d Kapono presented at the end of the week. \u201cAnd the more features that we can identify and the relationships between the different features, we\u2019re going to be able to better understand more about why these things, these organisms, bring us humans out. They attract us.\u201d<\/p>\n<h2>Combining Science and Surf<\/h2>\n<p>Kapono, as a surfer, is sponsored by Reef, and utilizes that relationship to fund Reef Week.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cCliff is more selfless than people realize,\u201d says Burns. \u201cHe could take the route of, \u2018Yeah, they support me to surf. I\u2019m going to pull those budgets to go on surf trips and make it all about the surfing.\u2019 But Cliff has decided, \u2018No, I want to channel this financial support for these trips to go into science.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2745243\" class=\"pom-image-wrap photo-alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" alt=\"Cliff Kapono diving at Honolua Bay\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1601\" height=\"2400\" decoding=\"async\" data-nimg=\"1\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2745243\" style=\"color:transparent\" src=\"https:\/\/cdn.outsideonline.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/glasert_20260509_REEF_MEGALAB_Dr.Cliff-1.jpg?width=1920&amp;auto=webp&amp;quality=75&amp;fit=cover 1x, https:\/\/cdn.outsideonline.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/glasert_20260509_REEF_MEGALAB_Dr.Cliff-1.jpg?width=3840&amp;auto=webp&amp;quality=75&amp;fit=cover 2x\" bad-src=\"https:\/\/cdn.outsideonline.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/glasert_20260509_REEF_MEGALAB_Dr.Cliff-1.jpg?width=3840&amp;auto=webp&amp;quality=75&amp;fit=cover\"\/><figcaption class=\"pom-caption\"><span class=\"article__caption\">Cliff Kapono diving at Honolua Bay during Reef Week.<\/span> (Photo: Todd Glaser)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>In contrast, Kapono often uses the word \u201cselfish\u201d to describe his work, because ultimately, mapping reefs combines two things that are equally enjoyable for him.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cUnderstanding the complexities of our natural world brings me joy, and <em>experiencing<\/em> those complexities brings me just as much joy,\u201d he says. \u201cI want to continue as long as I can to make an honest living doing both, at the same time. I don\u2019t see a difference between what I do and the surfer who plays music, or does art, or writes poems. Science is my art.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cCliff\u2019s really a genius, and people have a hard time understanding that, because we as humans are designed to categorize,\u201d says Burns. \u201cSo, you see him and you want to think like, \u2018Oh, tall Hawaiian surfer, ocean guy.\u2019 But wait, also like a crazy chemist? And also a writer? And a musician?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Embracing all parts of himself was a process for Kapono, who, growing up, didn\u2019t see someone combining surf and science the way he dreamed. He was told by \u201cnearly every single person,\u201d including teachers and other scientists, that it would never work.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt\u2019s not cool to be a surfer-scientist. None of my friends who were growing up to be pro surfers thought, \u2018Yeah, cool, go get some data,\u2019\u201d he says. \u201cNo one was like, \u2018That\u2019s rad\u2019 growing up. And I had to kind of push through all of that.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Combining his passions into a cohesive career was inspired, in part, by Bo Jackson, the only professional athlete in history to have been named an All-Star in two major American sports (baseball and football).<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI have like eight jobs. I\u2019m a professor, I\u2019m a professional surfer, I\u2019m a [publishing] PhD scientist,\u201d he says. \u201cPeople will ask, \u2018How do you do all that stuff?\u2019 Because Bo did it. But he\u2019s a freak, way, way gnarlier than I\u2019ll ever be. I\u2019m the nerd version.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019d be easy to call Kapono a savior of the reef (other people have). But he\u2019s not interested in that.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI don\u2019t want to be seen as doing \u2018good\u2019 work. I\u2019m doing the work I want to do,\u201d he says. \u201cI\u2019m about science, I\u2019m about elevating scientific literacy. I\u2019m about data. I\u2019m about nerd shit.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><!-- --><span hidden=\"\" aria-hidden=\"true\"\/><\/div>\n<p><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><br \/>\n<br \/><br \/>\n<br \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.outsideonline.com\/outdoor-adventure\/exploration-survival\/cliff-kapono-reef-week\/\">Source link <\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Published June 25, 2026 03:04AM Everyone loves Cliff Kapono. Todd Glaser, preeminent photographer, describes the 38-year-old surfer and scientist as a \u201cspecial person\u201d who can affect the level of conversation, no matter the topic. Alex Kiluauno, filmmaker, credits Kapono with helping him connect with his Hawaiian family. John Burns, PhD, calls him \u201cone of the<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":15290,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[35],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-15289","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-wild-living"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15289","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=15289"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15289\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/15290"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=15289"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=15289"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wildgreenquest.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=15289"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}