Published November 8, 2026 04:00AM<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
A weak summer sun strains to break through a darkening wall of clouds, its rays catching the shale. My boots methodically kick the rock loose as I work my way up a steep slope of scree. I\u2019m slick with sweat, my helmet is chafing, and I\u2019m completely alone in my misery. But the painstaking plod up the ridgeline of Bertha Peak in Waterton Lakes National Park<\/a> does come with its rewards. When I stop to catch my breath, my gaze sweeps south toward the rugged peaks of neighboring Glacier National Park before flicking north toward my home in Calgary, Canada, and the wild swathes of prairie that define southern Alberta.<\/p>\n Named for Bertha Ekelund, a bold, \u201cwayward\u201d Waterton pioneer whose colorful past included attempts to pass counterfeit money, Bertha Peak reflects something of the untamed wilderness the local legend called home. As I take in the view, it strikes me that this is a landscape that still rewards those willing to venture a little farther\u2014something I\u2019ve striven to do since my first visit to this park as a child.<\/p>\n While hikers flock to Glacier\u2019s trails just across the\u00a0<\/strong>border, I\u2019m happy to enjoy the same wild landscapes without the crowds. And, at a time when Canada-U.S.\u00a0relations are increasingly defined by political tension and division, this shared wilderness offers a different perspective. Established in 1932 as the world\u2019s first International Peace Park, Waterton-Glacier<\/a> reminds us that borders can connect as much as they divide. Peace parks have now been established in 30 places around the world, serving as symbols of cooperation, conservation, and understanding between neighboring nations. For Canadians like me and in-the-know Americans, Waterton offers a quieter way to experience the Rockies, with room to roam and the chance to find solitude in the mountains.<\/p>\n Despite sharing a border with Glacier, the experience of the two parks couldn\u2019t be more different. Waterton Lakes receives a fraction of Glacier\u2019s visitors; in 2025, Glacier saw more than 3 million visitors compared with just half a million in Waterton. You can drive the scenic Red Rock Parkway to the ruddy landscape of Red Rock Canyon without waiting in line, worrying about closures due to congestion, or having to book a shuttle. And while backcountry campsites still require permits, you don\u2019t have to fight the crowds when reservations open to secure a night in the wilderness. A variety of trails from the family-friendly hike to Bertha Falls to the challenging Carthew-Alderson Trail,<\/a> along with non-hiking pursuits such as kayaking, cycling, and dark-sky viewing, make Waterton an easy addition to a trip across the border.<\/p>\n In 2027, Waterton will also mark the tenth anniversary of the Kenow Wildfire, which burned nearly 20,000 hectares of Waterton in 2017, and its effects are still visible. Where thick stands of trees once stood, charred trunks now rise from lush regrowth, surrounded by the vibrant violet blooms of fireweed. The anniversary provides an opportunity to explore a larger story of shared landscapes, resilience, and cross-border conservation. As governments debate borders, the mountains offer a clear reminder: here, the international boundary is little more than a line on a map, and hiking across it feels like an uncomplicated expression of peace. Even amid the devastation, the fire revealed the resilience of the ecosystem and the importance of giving it space to recover.<\/p>\n A decade later, visitors can see forests regenerating, wildflowers returning and wildlife\u2014including the broad-shouldered grizzlies, shaggy plains bison, and the elusive wolverine\u2014moving through a landscape reshaped by fire. It\u2019s a reminder that conservation doesn\u2019t stop at the border: Waterton and Glacier remain a rare model of international cooperation, where hikers cross between countries through the mountains, wildlife moves freely, and conservation efforts extend across two nations.<\/p>\n The Prince of Wales Hotel<\/a>, one of Canada\u2019s most famous heritage sites, was built in part to lure booze-starved Americans across the border and away from the restrictions of Prohibition. You know you\u2019ve arrived in Waterton Lakes when the hotel, perched on a grassy knoll above Upper Waterton Lake, comes into view against the mountainous backdrop. With the park\u2019s striking peaks and indigo lakes, the hotel faces stiff competition for the spotlight. Yet the building has become an icon in its own right, symbolizing the enduring character of this under-the-radar corner of the Canadian Rockies. Turning 100 in 2027, the hotel was the brainchild of Louis Hill, a driving force behind the development of Glacier National Park. Hill saw Americans\u2019 frequent trips to Europe as a failure of domestic tourism.<\/p>\n World War I and Prohibition delayed construction, and the hotel finally opened in 1927.<\/strong> When Alberta repealed its prohibition laws in 1924, Waterton gained a new appeal for Americans seeking a legal drink. Nowadays, visitors can take in panoramic views of Upper Waterton Lake and the surrounding mountains while enjoying a meal or drink in the historic lounge before retiring to a room that retains its original charm. The lakeview rooms are well worth the splurge (a night at the height of summer will set you back about $600-$700 CAD \/ $425-$495 USD). The Royal High Tea is a guest-favorite; a chance to get dressed up and savor the hotel\u2019s old-world charm alongside delicate treats and a steaming pot of tea.<\/p>\n Today the hotel also draws visitors for the wilderness on its doorstep, and trust me, Waterton\u2019s trails will make you earn the view. If you have time for only one adventure, I recommend Crypt Lake, the park\u2019s best-known hike, which begins with a boat ride\u2014expect to pay $35 CAD\/$25 USD for a ticket\u2014across Upper Waterton Lake before climbing toward a turquoise lake hemmed in by towering peaks. Near the top, a narrow ledge, a 60-foot ladder, and a short tunnel through the mountain turn a demanding hike into a full-on expedition.<\/p>\n Elsewhere, the landscape changes character. Red Rock Canyon glows crimson along the Red Rock Parkway, its rust-colored stone an unexpected contrast to the surrounding mountains. At Bertha Falls, water spills down a smooth rock face before the trail continues toward Bertha Lake, a high alpine basin that feels a world away from the townsite below. And from Bear\u2019s Hump, the Prince of Wales Hotel looks almost miniature against the vast sweep of mountains and water. These are my go-to family-friendly hikes in Waterton, offering big scenery and memorable journeys without the commitment of a full day on the trail.<\/p>\n For those seeking a longer hike, I also highly recommend Akamina Ridge, where a challenging scramble along an exposed ridgeline leads to sweeping views of Wall Lake, Forum Lake and the rugged peaks straddling the Alberta-British Columbia border. Another favorite of mine is the long Carthew-Alderson traverse, which reveals a wilder side of the park, where the crowds thin and the scale of the landscape takes over.<\/p>\n From the shore of Upper Waterton Upper Lake, the international border is invisible, but out on the water, you realize how arbitrary it really is\u2014mountains, forests, and wildlife pay no mind to the line dividing Alberta from Montana. Boarding the Waterton Shoreline Cruise Co., the world\u2019s first International Peace Park feels like a living reality as the same continuous wilderness stretches across two countries.<\/p>\n Opt for the longer interpretive cruise to Goat Haunt, Montana, which includes a 30-minute stop at the ranger station. You\u2019ll take in sweeping peak views, spot wildlife, and enjoy the novelty of being in two countries in one afternoon without passing a border checkpoint.<\/p>\n Hikers can cross the international border between Waterton and Glacier National Park, but must carry a valid passport and follow customs reporting requirements on both sides. Those entering the U.S. must report through the CBP ROAM app on the day of crossing, while anyone returning to Canada must report their re-entry to the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) by phone. A popular option is to hike one-way to Goat Haunt and return by boat.<\/p>\n Waterton\u2019s history isn\u2019t confined to its mountain trails or the old buildings of the townsite either. Believe it or not, you can scuba dive in Waterton\u2019s lakes. The water may be cold, but visibility can be excellent, making the sheltered and scenic waters of Emerald Bay of Upper Waterton Lake particularly appealing to divers. Beneath the surface, at a depth of about 65 feet, lies the wreck of the Gertrude, an early-20th-century paddle wheeler.<\/p>\n If diving in chilly mountain water isn\u2019t your idea of fun, there are plenty of warmer-weather ways to get on the lakes. I recommend renting a kayak, canoe or stand-up paddleboard and getting out on the surface of the water to soak in those mountain views from a different perspective. Parks Canada does require non-motorized watercraft entering Waterton\u2019s lakes to be rented within the park, with options including Blakiston & Company in town and Cameron Lake Boat Rentals on the shore of Cameron Lake.<\/p>\nA Quieter Alternative to Glacier National Park<\/h2>\n
A Landscape Reborn by Fire<\/h2>\n
The Hotel That Became a Speakeasy<\/h2>\n
![\"Prince](\"https:\/\/cdn.outsideonline.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Prince-of-Wales-at-Dusk-CREDIT-Warren-Giovannetti.jpeg?width=3840&auto=webp&quality=75&fit=cover\"\/)
A Wilder Side of the Rockies<\/h2>\n
Where the Border Becomes a Bridge<\/h2>\n
![\"Descending](\"https:\/\/cdn.outsideonline.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/11\/Descending-Bears-Hump-1-scaled.jpeg?width=3840&auto=webp&quality=75&fit=cover\"\/)
![\"Skiing](\"https:\/\/cdn.outsideonline.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/11\/Skiing-Cameron-Lake-CREDIT-Warren-Giovennetti.jpg?width=3840&auto=webp&quality=75&fit=cover\"\/)