Trail Lessons and New Rules

Hiking into Havasu Falls just outside Grand Canyon National Park had been on my bucket list for years. So, when I heard that the Havasupai Tribe, which oversees access to the falls, changed the Havasu Falls permitting process in January to make the coveted trail accessible to more people, I jumped onboard.

In June, two of my best friends and I pulled out our trekking poles, tightened our hiking boots, and set out on the 20-mile out–and– back trail to the travertine, cerulean-hued drop pools and waterfalls.

The trail to Havasu Falls is ten miles one way, plus extra mileage for side hikes (and trips to the fry bread cart). Our camping permit awarded us four days and three nights at the Havasupai Campground, which is located about two miles from Supai Village and the Havasupai Lodge, a hotel for guests. The campground spans a one-mile stretch through the meandering Havasu Creek, and features multiple water crossings, rope swings and picnic tables. Permit costs to camp are $455 per-person, with the option to add on a $45 early access fee. A three-night stay at Havasupai Lodge costs upwards of $2,000 per room.

I could write several thousand words about what to do and see at Havasu Falls, and also about how to pack for he trek there. Instead, I have six hacks to help you enjoy this outing.

1. Consider Early Permitting

This is the first year the Havasupai Tribe rolled out its early option for permitting, doing away with the old lottery system. Those willing to pay an extra $40 can apply for early-access permits for campground sites, or for the $160 per-night room at the lodge. Regular sales to the general public are expected to open again on February 1, without the extra fee.

2. Be Aware of the Heat

If you’re like us and snag a permit during a heat-advisory period, consider starting your hike in the evening or early morning. We started at the trailhead at 6 P.M. for the hike in, putting us to camp at around midnight, and left at 3 A.M. to hike out of the canyon. Check out these pointers for more on staying cool and hydrated.

3. Bring a Hammock

Not all campsites have trees, but those along the river have plenty of spots to rig up a hammock. In the heat of the summer, a lightweight sleeping bag, liner or sheet will suffice for sleeping, and a hammock is the perfect bed to stay cool throughout the night.

4. Bring Additional Means of Communication

Depending on your cellular provider, there are sections of the trail that may have cell service near the campground, lodge and village. However, the canyon walls block cell reception for most of the hike in, as well as on trails from camp to the Colorado River. Bring a satellite or spot device as backup in case of an emergency, and don’t solely rely on your cell phone’s SOS feature. I love my Garmin inReach.

5. Bring Cash

If you’re like me and love to add to your sticker collection, don’t forget the cash at home. There are some vendors that sell stickers, postcards, T-shirts and other trinkets at small tables near the camp sites. There’s also a fry bred cart that you won’t want to miss!

6. Don’t Forget Your Water Shoes

There are multiple creek and river crossings throughout camp and along the trails leading to the Colorado River. Although I rocked my North Face Fastpack Mid Waterproof Boots for the hikes in and out of the Canyon, I donned my Chacos for side hikes on our off days. (Plus, I still have the strap tan to prove it.) Don’t forget a towel like this Rumpl Quick Dry Travel Towel, mine doubled as a picnic blanket, sleeping pad sheet, and camp decoration.